Anniversary Getaway to The Bay: Part 3

Our last day...

My old high school friend Mark Tarpey-Schwed now lives in Mill Valley and we'd emailed about getting together. We decided to meet mid-morning near Castro Street (we took the Muni train) and then head over for a quick tour of the California Palace of the Legion of Honor. 

But first we had to stop at a viewpoint near Sea Cliff that had the quintessential view of the Golden Gate Bridge.  It was a beautiful day!

Mark gave us a whirlwind tour of "the Legion" which included a Matisse exhibit and their permanent collection. 

Left is one of a delightful series by French painter Carlos Vanloo that had children playing artists of various types. This one was aptly titled Painting (1753). There were others of musicians and architects.

To the right above is Jean Marc Nattier's Terpsichore, Muse of Music and Dance (ca. 1739). 

The Salon Dore

There was also a really cool exhibit of the conservation work they are doing on a period room - The Salon Dore. They state: 

"The Salon Doré from the Hôtel de La Trémoille is one of the finest examples of French Neoclassical interior architecture anywhere. Regrettably, a winding history of relocation and reconfiguration has left this great room wanting. Moved no fewer than six times between 1877 and 1995, its architectural and aesthetic integrity has been greatly compromised. This year, the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco has closed the Salon Doré and the adjacent British art gallery to embark on a comprehensive conservation project of the period room.

Over the course of the project the Fine Arts Museums is reinstating the room's original floor plan, restoring the gilding and paint, and installing an 18th-century parquet floor, a coved ceiling, windows, and a new lighting scheme. This restoration brings new focus to the room's character and purpose by reintroducing furnishings of the period, which demonstrate the room's social function as a salon de compagnie, or a room for receiving guests."

It was a quick buzz but just enough to get a feel for the collection and its connection to the French culture and art world. I didn't know that there is a warm regard between the French and the city of San Francisco that dates way back. The Palace was one of the buildings during the Panama Pacific International Exposition in 1915 that was given to the city by the Alma and Adolphe Spreckels to be used as an art museum. 

Samovar

Next was lunch. I'd wanted to go to Samovar, a tea house and cafe and this was our last chance. Mark took us to one on Page Street that had an old world feel to it. A huge tea list with everything by the pot. 

As we sat and ate we got caught up on Mark's world, his daughters' activities and other fun things that recalled my conversations with him as a teen - food, culture and travel. 

I had a delicious quiche and a pot of hot California Persian tea. Mark had smoked duck on the "Paleo Tasting menu" and David had a delicious brown rice bowl with poached eggs and braised tempeh. 

From there we said good bye to Mark and promised to see him on one of our return trips. A walk down Page Street to the Muni station and then back to our hotel.  But not before we made one last stop. 

 

 As it turned out, The Palace Hotel was right around the corner from our hotel. I'd remembered that my father proposed to my mother there back in the late '50's. 

I wanted to see the now historic Garden Court  and take a picture for my mother before we left. The room is stunning. Flooded with light from the glass ceiling. Worth the extra time it took!

We left our lovely hotel room on the 17th floor and headed to the airport by way of one last Uber ride. Our flight home was uneventful - thankfully. 

We had a fabulous anniversary together and a holiday I will treasure!                                                

Anniversary Getaway to The Bay: Part 2

So where did I leave off? Oh yeah, we were getting ready for the anniversary dinner. Starved from only having pastries and lattes for lunch, we looked forward to a good meal. We even got dressed up. Alas we didn't take pictures. (We need to work on that documentation thing.) But David wore a tie and I wore a dress.

I'd made dinner reservations weeks in advance for Restaurant Gary Danko, a 15-year old Bay Area establishment that has earned multiple awards and stars including several James Beard Foundation awards. It fills months in advance so we could only get a 5:30pm reservation but that was fine. We were hungry and curious.

We sat against the window at the back right.

This place is more of a theatrical experience in some ways than your standard upscale restaurant. The service is kind and attentive without being overbearing. It was definitely not pretentious. They didn't rush us...ever... and had the table waiting thing well choreographed.

The menu is prix fixe with options for 3-, 4-, or 5-courses. There is also a tasting menu with wine pairings. We both chose the 3-course option and picked a starter, entree and dessert.

David started with the Lobster Salad with Avocado, Citrus, Shaved Fennel and Mustard-Tarragon Vinaigrette and I had the Treviso and Romaine Salad with Olives, Anchovies, Banyuls Vinaigrette and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Treviso is a form of radicchio. I loved the anchovy vinaigrette but stuffed olives with curled anchovies around them were a creative twist on a garnish we didn't expect.

There were lots of conversations about the proper wine of course and the staff was really well informed. According to the website they have ".....over two thousand selections with a focus on half bottles and wines from the classic regions of California and Burgundy." That explains the enormous list they brought to the table. And if you can't find something you want, it's your own fault - the list has half bottle prices that range from $24 to $1700.

David started with a _____ and I waited to have the recommended 2012 Failla, Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast with my entree.

For the main course I ordered the Horseradish Crusted Salmon Medallion with Dilled Cucumber and Mustard Sauce. I'd never seen anything quite like it and wonder still what the preparation was for the crust. It was like a topper (see picture at left below) and I could discern some texture of horseradish but not the spice. It was quite good and surprisingly filling. I couldn't finish my two medallion portion. (Plus I wanted to save room for dessert.)

David had the Coriander, Black Pepper and Rosemary Crusted Tuna with Spinach, Piperade and Anchovy-Garlic Essence. It had more of those little anchovy wrapped olives. He had the _______ with this.


And then there was dessert. Not one to pass up anything close to a french apple type of dessert I had the Warm Louisiana Butter Cake with Apples, Huckleberry Compote and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream (YUM). The picture below doesn't begin to tell you how delicious the crusty gooey cake was with the apples baked in. Honestly, best part of the meal. 

David had the Chocolate Praline Parfait with Bourbon Sauce and Salted Caramel Ice Cream. Their tea list was a page long and they served a wonderful selection from Rishi. Then, they brought us a chocolate mousse with a sparkler for our anniversary. The chocolate was divine, but we were stuffed!

We may not go back soon. We realize that as much as fine dining is a part of the food world to experience, we missed easy informal meals at the bar without all the attention. I am very glad we gave it a spin for our special day. Maybe next time it will be dinner at the bar.

Anniversary Getaway to The Bay Part 1

This year marks our fourth wedding anniversary. The last two years have been overshadowed by the death of our dear friend Garret and last year, my father's passing. This year, I decided to get out ahead of tragedy and book a flight to San Francisco to celebrate our special day.


We left on Tuesday, January 21 for three days and two nights the windy city. Using hotel points we booked a room at the W Hotel near Yerba Buena Center. Alex, the very kind front desk clerk, upgraded our room when he learned it was our anniversary. A corner room (#1702) with a view of the Bay Bridge. What we loved about it (in addition to the perfect pillows and Bliss amenities) were the two window seats where we could sit a read all afternoon. (Which we did on Wednesday after a walk to the Ferry Building for a cup of the best latte ever at Blue Bottle Coffee.)

Our dinner the first night was at Greens Restaurant at Fort Mason Center. We'd been there the last time we were in SF to celebrate David's birthday. It's a favorite and remains so after our meal Tuesday night. With a vegetarian menu everything was "on the table" in terms of choices.

I started with the County Line Little Gems Escarole and Watercress Salad - slices of apple and persimmon  gave it crunch, pomegranate seeds dotted it with color and a cider vinaigrette was perfectly matched to the ingredients.

David started with the Warm Cauliflower Salad - capers and pecorino gave it a burst of tang while the pine nuts were buttery and well, nutty. Oh I forgot the most aromatic gin martini I've had since Hendrick's gin. This one was made with a local distiller's organic gin called Blade. Flowery citrusy, aromatic perfection. Only thing better (maybe) was the Vesper David had in Boston at Catalyst over the holidays

Okay back to dinner. My second course was the Mesquite Grilled Brochette, a winter vegetable kabob with a warmly spiced green curry type sauce called charmoula, Moroccan carrot slaw and couscous. Just delicious with grilled tofu cubes and chunks of white and sweet potato. David ordered the Greek Pizza with savoy spinach, rainbow chard, red onions, feta, fontina, gaeta olives, rosemary and lemon oil. He could barely finish it it was so rich but so flavorful he couldn't stop eating. The crust was like a pastry crust with cornmeal adding a lightness to it.

By the time we reached dessert we were both too full. I asked the waiter to package a few of their cookies for me to take "home". Their Mexican wedding cookies seemed so appropriate!

Wednesday we slept late, ordered room service and puttered most of the morning. Let me just say the room service food was impeccable. Oatmeal with chewy and grainy without being overly thick and creamy.

David's yogurt with granola and fruit included both housemade granola and housemade yogurt with vanilla bean speckles in the sweet and perfectly tart European styled version. We asked where they got it and the kitchen says they make it themselves. How about that - must get the recipe.

Our afternoon included the aforementioned trip to the Ferry Building and then a lazy afternoon reading - its a tremendously freeing thing to be in a city like San Francisco and not feel compelled to spend every moment out in the city.

To be able to relax and enjoy our room with a view made this one of the most relaxing and reviving trips I've been on in a very long time. By late afternoon we were ready to use our complimentary drink coupons and try out the hotel bar. I ordered a kir royal in memory of our Paris trip four years ago. Perfectly balanced it was a lightly fruity, dry treat before we changed clothes for dinner.

A Different Year

Uncle Bob (left) and Dad

Today is the anniversary of the day my father died in 2013. I will always remember that day - it started with a shot shortly after 5:00am with a call from my mother. My father was in the hospital, very ill with complications from congestive heart failure. My mother called to say she received a call from the doctor saying to come now, he was very sick. In her words, trembling, "your father is very ill."

David and threw on our clothes and headed out the door. We were the first to arrive at the hospital around 5:30am (we live the closest) and he had passed five minutes earlier. Soon everyone would arrive and we would begin the odyssey that is the year in your life after a parent dies.

My year was filled feelings of guilt not spending enough time with my mother, pain with the loss of a relationship that would never be different that it was, gratitude for a father that gave me so much of who I am, and anxiety - lots of anxiety. It would creep up out of nowhere. I kept imagining that morning, what my father looked like the night before, and his painful last days of life. I ached watching him struggle to eat when good food and wine were a central part of his enjoyment of life. Old age and illness can be so cruel.

Over time the anxiety dissipated as distance grew between that day and the rest of my days. I began to gain a new sense of myself. In February I decided it was time to change my hair color. I went russet red. I loved it. By November I pixied it and haven't looked back.Who knew hair color and cut could make such a difference?

I picked up reading again - with a vengence - and lost myself in "chicklit" and then in books about travel, women and finding ourselves. Much of it included food and France. Why France? I'm not sure. Except my father was born on Bastille Day and he always had a thing for all things French, Marie Antoinette and the fleur de lis. Regardless, the books connected me with real women who struggled to find new identities through their work and their travels.

Occasionally these books included a story about the loss of a parent - usually a father - and it gave me time to reflect and sometimes even to respond with a cathartic cry. I cried not because I associated directly with the writer's experience, but because so often I wished I'd had a closer relationship and a deeper friendship with him. But he made it hard. And somewhere along the road, I gave up. I'm not proud of that. I am sad. I grieved and continue to grieve in some ways for what I didn't have and deeply needed - a father to know and to know me. I owe him so much and I wish I could say thank you one last time. I wouldn't be who I am without you.

Mid-Week Winter Dinner: With Help from a Few New Friends

While reading Molly Wizenburg's blog Orangette last month, I learned about Megan Gordon, the Seattle purveyor of Marge Granola and blog mistress of A Sweet Spoonful.

Gordon is also now a cookbook author and a damn good one too. Her new book is Whole Grain Mornings: New Breakfast Recipes to Span the Seasons. I bought it on pre-order sight unseen and am not disappointed.

Last night I made dinner from one of her savory breakfast entrees - Pearl Barley with Mushroom and Parmesan. I added a few peas for color and to get an extra veggie into the meal - I liked the texture change and the slight sweetness they added.

I fried up a couple of eggs and laid them on top for protein and served it with a green salad, crusty bread and white wine.

Definitely a great addition to my winter meal selection. It's certainly not a meal to make in 30 minutes or less. The prep is easy but the barley takes 60 minutes to cook. It's worth the wait.

David got a phone call right before he left his office for the gym at the end of the day. A project they'd proposed last month came through. So that means a new contract for him and a ride along to Sonoma when he does site visits for me. I'm excited. Nothing like visiting the wine country on your husband's business trip.

So to celebrate his added income and professional success, I made a french yogurt cake that seems to make its way into every "American Foodie in France" book I've read. This one I took from Elizabeth Bard's Paris for Lunch although I could have gotten it in any number of other books. (Remind me to tell you about the amazing chocolate cake that they also all seem to know.)

The picture isn't particularly stunning - I made it in a loaf pan since I cut the recipe in half and didn't have a small enough round cake pan. I also added apples that I'd chopped and coated with cinnamon and a little brown sugar.  Although the apples went on top, they sunk to the bottom (you can see them down there in the picture.)

This cake a extremely moist and with a firm crumb. You'd think it was soaked in oil, but it must just be the yogurt doing its thing. It didn't call for a lot of oil and no butter at all. Don't leave the lemon zest out.

Delicious sliced with my afternoon tea - or morning tea too for that matter. Okay let's just say its good anytime. It would also be great with little chantilly (whipped cream) or a tiny scoop of good ice cream. Here is the recipe as re-told by me from Paris for Lunch.
 

1 c plain yogurt ( used Greek and it turned out fine)
1 c sugar
A large pinch of salt
1 t vanilla extract
1/3 c vegetable oil
2 large eggs
1-1/2 t baking powder
1 t baking soda
Zest of 1 lemon

A handful of chopped apples, berries or other fruit. Nuts might also be good.


Preheat the oven to 350 (f). Lightly oil a 10-inch round cake pan. (I used pan spray and it worked great. Bard's recipe has you using parchment paper and oil etc. but I just find it messy.)

In a medium bowl combine the yogurt, sugar, salt and vanilla. Whisk until smooth. Add the oil in a steady stream and whisk to combine. Add the eggs one at a time, whisking to incorporate after each addition.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and baking soda and add to the yogurt mixture; whisk to combine - don't over mix though. Stir in the lemon zest.

Transfer the batter to the cake pan and top with fruit or nuts. Bake in the center of the oven for 45 minutes, untio golden brown and slightly risen. Do the toothpick test to be sure. Cool slightly and then de-pan it to a rack for further cooling. Can be served at room temperature or warm.

To store, wrap it in foil. It gets better with age. Do not store in an airtight container or plastic bag or it will get soggy.

Bon Appetit!

Tea Drinking Notes #1: Morning Tea and Afternoon Chai

Mornings used to be about that first cup of dark roast coffee - au lait. David and I used to greet the day with the burr grinder and those shiny beans as though that cup would somehow transport us out of sleep and into the day. Somewhere over the last year, all that changed as my body has changed. As a friend once said, I love coffee but coffee doesn't love me.

Although I still drink an espresso or cappuccino later in the day, I'm now all about tea in the morning. I've always enjoyed tea but I'm slowly becoming a connoisseur as I explore the new (to me) world of the little leaf.

Each morning I take quick stock of myself and determine what I feel like drinking. My morning tea is definitely different than my afternoon tea. In the morning I need something bold to lift the fog like the coffee used to do.

Is it a Lapsang Souchong with its smoky essence of sweet pine?

Or maybe a black tea with a delicate floral scent of roses or bergamot? Tao of Tea's Rose Petal Black is a favorite for that craving. Sometimes it's a straight ahead breakfast blend - no surprises. Always with a little milk and never with sugar.


Magical Chai
Afternoons are often my favorite time for hot sweet and milky chai.

The best chai I've found is Steven Smith Teamakers Blend No. 33, Masala Chai. Some purchased chai's are loaded with cloying essences and oils to get the strong spicy citrus combo you want most. But Smith uses ginger root and pink peppercorns along with cardamom (a must) and black pepper. He also blends them all with Assam tea - my favorite for its black tea strength with a contrasting smoothness.

When I make my own chai I use a recipe from Rebar restaurant's self published Rebar: Modern Food Cookbook. It uses Assam tea, cardamom pods, star anise, whole cloves, cinnamon sticks and peppercorns.

This tea nursed me through a difficult, cold January last year when my father was ill and it comforted me in the days after his passing. 


Chai with fresh ginger, cardamom and cinnamon 

from Rebar: Modern Food Cookbook
Serves 4

4 cups water
1 large ginger thumb, peeled and sliced
1 x 3" cinnamon stick
6 cloves
10 cardamom pods, crushed
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
3 Assam tea bags (or other good black tea)
2 T honey or agave
1-1/2 cups milk, soy or rice
Place water and spices in a pot and bring to a boil. Reduce hear, partly cover and gently simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the mixture, discard the solids and return the liquid to the pot. Add the tea bags and let them steep for 5 minutes. Remove the tea bags and still in the sweetener and milk. Re-heat. Adjust sweetness and milk levels to taste, and serve.

Enjoy!

Food, Fantasy and Reinvention

Last night I made a new dish from Michelle Maisto's  The Gastronomy of Marriage: A Memoir of Food and Love. This is one of the latest in a series of books I've been reading that connect stories of women (and a few men), travel and their search for identity with cooking and foodie-ism.

There have been others that I've enjoyed reading in 2013 and I'll write about them separately I'm sure. They include: On Rue Tatin: Living and Cooking in a French Town by Susann Herrmann Loomis; Molly Wizenburg's A Homemade Life; and David Leibowitz's The Sweet Life in Paris: Delicious Adventures in the Worlds Most Glorious - and Perplexing - City. Currently I'm loving Elizabeth Bard's Lunch in Paris: A Love Story with Recipes

There will also be more to read this year and of course I'll document them here. But today I want to write about our dinner of Stuffed Eggplant from Maisto's book. Excellent easy entree with an ingredient I don't cook enough - eggplant. I added chopped mushrooms and red peppers and some extra breadcrumbs. The stuffing was custardy but filling - definitely needed the tomato sauce. Left overs will make us dinner tonight. David was happy and the idea of creating a delicious new dish to add to my go-to repertoire is always a happy occasion for me.

So what's the scoop on my fascination with these books?

I have a surge of interest lately in Paris and France. Its probably that "better in theory than reality fantasy." But there is something romantic and stress free about thinking of an old world with culture and style. These books give me an opportunity for arm chair travel to different place that stokes my creativity. It gives me a place to go in my mind that inspires while allowing me a little vacation.

The stories of ex-pats finding a new life in an unknown place - women finding and re-defining themselves in new surroundings or new relationships - trying on different personas - and always exploring the joy of food which brings comfort and creativity in the midst of the adventure.

These are independent women in interdependent relationships - I love to explore my similar world through theirs and take some sense of camaraderie with me.

I find them inspirational because I envy their ability to strike out and take the risk of the unknown. I love their ability to journal and tell the story of their experience. And the recipes have not failed me yet. I live vicariously through these stories and dine in style too.

One day I too will go back to Paris better able to speak the language and to explore the world there. On the other hand, the Paris in my mind may be more wonderful than the gritty truth of the real City of Light. At least for now, I can afford this version and this way of travel.

(Paris books photo at right can be purchased from Kathy Fornal on Etsy)